Monday, March 28, 2011

20 - 27 March ENGLAND

At the pub up the road from David and Justine's house. Sorry Pete and Barb, this is only photo I have taken (so far) of David and we have none of Justine. We will take more soon, I promise.  

In England, and closer to the motor home and the real meat and three veg of the trip - it's all been entrees so far.

We arrived to find that David (Jane's brother) had sent a car - not the stretched Hummerzine I had hoped for but much more fun that battling with pubic transport and our luggage.  Thanks Dave!

David and Justine and little Hudson live in a picturesque country village called Turner's Hill which ticks all the important boxes, narrow winding roads, old houses, rolling hillsides and ye old pubs. Very, very English - we even found a farm shop selling organic everything on our first walk. Of course the guy was married to a Kiwi from Napier (close to my Dad's side of the family)....did I mention it is a small world?

David and Justine's house - the terrace on the left with the (hopefully) 2.25m x 6.9m driveway

Our first major outing from there was to Brighton, which was great fun. It has a great mix of grand old civic buildings and promenades, very, very funky and quite bohemian small lanes full of different kinds of shops and food outlets - and the seaside. You can see how it would once would have been very impressive, but is now kind of cheesy. Very enjoyable though - I particularly enjoyed seeing Jane's reaction to an English 'beach'.

We also stopped in at the Royal Pavilion which was a sort of Summer House for King George the something. The whole thing was done in an Indian/Oriental theme in the 1800's and is very impressive - bizarre in some ways and equal parts hideous/beautiful/amazing. One of the most impressive interiors to a building I have ever seen.

Royal Pavilion


Royal Pavilion - inside. No photos allowed, so this is a photo of a postcard, which is cheating.


Savour those glasses of champagne, for they will cost as much as the rest of lunch and the other drinks put together....

On Brighton Pier


Jane looking at the 'sand' at the 'beach'. Bit different to Auzzie.

The next day I managed to wake myself up at 4:00am by ingesting the 'daytime' pills of the cold medication I had been taking - so a nice early start. We took David's advice and took a pub walk, which traces a circular route through the countryside starting and finishing at a council refuse processing plant (kidding, a pub). We had Ploughman's Lunch, which made him very cross...

We also visited Standen House, an 1800's house which was one of the early buildings in the Arts and Crafts movement, and William Morris was part of the design team. It may sound lame, but the wallpaper was AMAZING! We got in free because we joined the National Partnerships Trust. It was when the ticket girl laughed a bit that we started to suspect we were not in their target demographic.


What's the storey with these old school fences? They are cooooool!
The best thing about a pub walk - the pub.
The only photo we have of Standen House which isn't cluttered up by old people falling over their strollers.


Look at this vase.....it's HIDEOUS. Must be worth a fortune.


On the 24th  David kindly lent us his Mini and we went to visit Frant, and Bodiam Castle. I lived in England for 4 years when I was young, and had my first year of school in Frant. I've been back before but it is always interesting to see how it has changed.

We used to spend a lot of time at Bodiam Castle as well, and I was relieved to see it looks as amazing as I remember it. Apparently it is one of the most photographed castles in the world (how do they know? Online surveys I presume), and I think you can see why. It fits neatly into one photo frame...

We also had our first trip into London. We finally went up the London Eye after having just looked at the queue every other time we have visited - and we also went into Southwark Cathedral. Note to travellers, all the really old graves are in the floor, we found a few from the 1500's. We met Sarah and her friend Amanda, and spent the night at Sarah's lovely city pad.

...and that brings us up to date. It has been particularly nice seeing David, Justine and Hudson on their home turf - and cruising up to the pub for a roast lunch and a couple of pints on a Sunday afternoon is really what England is all about.

By the next post we will have picked up the motor home! We have had some hassles sorting out insurance but it is fixed now. Soon we will be on the road!

This was me and Olly went to school...

....and this is where we used to live - in the bit round the side of this house you can't see from this angle. The Rector had the nice bit.
This is the Church us heathens helped to look after which was part of the deal of getting the house in the last picture. It was great fun to play amongst the gravestones and steal the odd thing from the tombs.
Bodiam Castle
These staircases are truly terrifying. I guess building codes were different in the 14th century


The London Eye. The empty framework of the capsule ahead of us did not fill me with confidence. It didn't fall off and we made it to the ground fine.

The Tate Modern - we didn't go in this time because we were too early
A photo of Dolph Lundgren. We drank at a pub which he also drank at, which means something....
Chelsea - very, very flash. I spent ages pointing out expensive cars to Jane which didn't care about even a little bit.

Me, Sarah (Jane's sister) and Amanda.



Jane busting out her karate moves at Sheffield Park

19 March - SEOUL

We only spent the night here on our way through, but it did remind us why we love Korea. We walked into a random restaurant, pointed at the menu (avoiding the blood sausage hangover soup), and had an absolutely fantastic meal + beer for $18 between us.

There were three guys keeping us company, the one who didn't speak any English kept a very close eye on us and continually offered advice on exactly what should be eaten with what - the other two spoke excellent English and asked us all about our trip. One of them had been teaching at Unitec which is very close to where we live in NZ. As the song goes, it's a small world...

Anyway, we have been to Seoul for a couple of weeks (a couple of years ago now) for one of Jane's conferences and it rocks.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

March 14 - March 18 HIROSHIMA

....and back to Hiroshima.

By this point we realised how serious the situation with the nuclear reactors north of Tokyo was, and decided to change our travel plans. We changed our flights which were originally leaving from Tokyo, to leaving from Osaka, and consequently had to miss going to Abu Dhabi which is a real shame. We will catch up with our friends over there as soon as possible.

As most people who are reading this post know, we were in Brisbane for the floods, and we still there when Cyclone Yassi went through far north Queensland, we went back to New Zealand when the second quake hit Christchurch, and now we have been in Japan for the Earthquake, Tsunami and nuclear reactor crises.

Yes, it has taken the shine off the holiday - and it has been odd being a tourist in a country where all this is happening. I keep reminding myself that we are fine, so are all our friends and family, and that spending money in Japan and contributing to the economy is a good thing

We are immensely grateful to Nic and Berin for providing us with a refuge, and hopefully everything goes well for them. Our travel agent has been great too.

Next post from the UK - and a bit more upbeat I promise.

........and the motorhome awaits! Hmmmmmm, what to name it.......

March 12 - March 14 FUKUOKA and KUMAMOTO


Morgan and Berin in front of the Tenmengu Shrine. Oscar lurking background, looking slightly terrifying.
Road trip!

Berin hired a car and we all piled in for a long weekend away in Kyushu, Japan's southern most island.

Our first stop was in Hofu - in researching stuff to see in Japan we discovered that everything seems to be in the 'top 3'. We saw Tenmengu shrine.......one of the top three in Japan. Very impressive - wonderful plum blossoms and hot chips. The website said that the playground has a very impressive view, and it does!

We then drove through to Fukuoka which was Berin's home for a year when he was 16. It is a very lively, busy port city which seemed to have quite an exciting vibe. We stopped at a Yatai for dinner, which is basically a mini restaurant on a cart. Berin ordered random stuff + beer. My favourite. After that we stumbled on a random cocktail bar and drank waaaaay too much whiskey.

The next day we went to Kumamoto Castle. This is an extremely impressive Castle and series of fortifications dating from 1467. However, the main keep itself was destroyed by a fire and rebuilt in the late 1960's - it looks amazing from the outside, but inside it is a 70's style concrete and brown vinyl museum. Very, very odd, still enough of the other original structures (including the fortifications) exist for it to be truly impressive.

We went to an Ethiopian restaurant for dinner - pity Dad wasn't there, he could have told them to lie down and take off all their clothes (he is a Doctor at the refugee centre).

Highlights - the food (it always is) especially meat on sticks, getting stared at in Hofu (I don't think they see a lot of foreigners) and the overall surrealness that is Kumamoto Castle

Berin, Oscar and Nic at Tenmengu Shrine, Hofu


Oscar about to finish off Nic at the Imperial Villa.



Kumamoto Castle - looking good for something that is going on 40 years old...



One of the original bits - looking good for something that is going on 400 years old...


Everything is better with jazz hands....



The Yatai - I'm busy discovering one of my 'food boundaries' - chicken cartilage. Thanks, Berin.  Don't listen to him when he says something has great 'mouth feel'.




Working on our album cover after a couple of drinks.

Fukuoka Tower - it is actually a communications tower and completely empty apart from  a coupled of floors of observation room and a restaurant at the top. 








March 9 - March 12 HIROSHIMA

The A-Bomb Dome - one of the only structures left standing near the hypocentre of the atomic detonation
I'm going to undersell Hiroshima horribly with this post - however, we have been twice before so this time hung out with Berin, Nic and Oscar rather than seeing any of the sites.

I will say that seeing the A-Bomb Dome, Peace Park and the two museums is a life changing experience and a unique place in the world.

Hiroshima itself is charming, it is a river city with great parks, shopping and restaurants.

Berin and Nic (and now Oscar) have been living here for several years. I have known Berin since I was 9 and Nic from my early 20's and we both love them dearly. Berin is a fluent speaker of Japanese and a lot of our travels and experiences in this country would not have been possible without him. Thanks mate!

On a sombre note, we were on the train into Tokyo for the first 7.3 earthquake, and we missed the larger 8.9 quake by a day. Hiroshima is well south of Tokyo and the subsequent Tsunami, so we were perfectly safe - but still....

March 7 - March 9 NIKKO



The Shinyko Sacred Bridge - that taxi driver offered to take drive somewhere we could view it from underneath.  Pardon?

As we set off from Tokyo it began snowing - and by the time we got to Nikko the whole area was blanketed. We were lucky, because it does not snow that often up here, and the whole place looked magical and was so quiet.

Nikko is a small town in the mountains north of Tokyo and is a popular visiting spot because of the scenery and historic buildings.

After getting  off the train we went via the Shinyko bridge to the Rinoji, Toshogu, Taiyuinbyo and Futarasan shrines. All the buildings are part of the same large complex, and in the snow looked picture perfect. We walked up the slightly treacherous stone steps to Ieyasu's tomb, where Berin bought us a blessing for "transport safety".

The next day we visited 'Edo Wonderland' which is a Samurai/Ninja village theme park complete with live action shows and various cheesy attractions. Berin and I dressed up as a Samurai, and instantly became one of the key attractions - it was awesome. I was very, very sad to take the outfit off.

The next day we visited the huge and cold Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa - 3,000m2 footprint, and 1 degree Celsius INSIDE!

We stayed at a lodge in the woods, which despite being full of sad hippy backpackers was a lot of fun.

High points of the trip included drinking the little Yakitori restaurant in town out of beer; the traditional Japanese Onsen (hot spring baths) which is done naked (no more secrets between Berin and myself); being mobbed by girls while dressed up as a Samurai; and standing in the snow with my five pairs of socks on marvelling at the Japanese girls in the shorty-shorts and heels.

Also, a plea - Japan we love your heated toilet seats, but why only cold water to wash your hands and then no way to dry them? Why?

Jane and Morgan in front of part of the Toshogu Shrine. Yes, it is really, really cold. Sneakers are rubbish in the snow, in case you were wondering.


Icy steps of doom leading to Ieyasu's tomb. 

The view from our roof shaped dorm room accommodation at twilight.

You want to fight! FIGHT ME!!! Luckily those sandals had heat pads.

........another challenger appears......

At last, a worthy opponent.
The world's cutest ninja. In my infinite capacity for mercy, I let her live.

Mama-san who owned the Yakatori restaurant. She loved us because we drank all her beer. I'm not sure who took this photo....

The Imperial Villa
One of the many thousands of year old Jizo sculptures that line the Nikko river- rugged up safely for winter!