Sunday, May 29, 2011

The Weinstrasse- 25th – 27th May



Vines surrounding Bad Durkheim

After leaving the Rhine we headed along the German Wine trail, or Weinstrasse.  The drive itself is beautiful, with vines as far as the eye can see in all directions.  The wine of the region is mainly Riesling and what was truly staggering was both the number of wine producers and the quality of the wine. Most of the wine producers tend to have a wine store or weingut in the nearest local town, where you can have wine tastings or wein probes.  It’s a bit different to NZ- no imposing, architecturally designed buildings, just a small home with bottling areas where someone from the winery will sit outside at a small table with you to taste the wines.  I don’t know if we were particularly lucky but the wine probes we did were incredibly successful and the motorhome is currently well stocked with wine! 

Our first weinprobe.  The lady was really lovely and did very well with limited english. 

At another weingut.  We are leaning our bikes against a roman sarcophagus!  The owners of the vineyard had contacted a museum who had said "thanks but no, we're full!"

Our base for this time was Bad Durkheim.  Bad, we eventually found out, means spa or something like it.  Our campsite was huge but very pretty, and we were happy to pay extra to have a site right next to the lake.  We didn’t realize that also came with all night long, incredibly loud frogs…but still, it was very picturesque.  We even went for a dip.  It was also (for Martin’s interest mainly) next to a small airstrip, which had a restaurant that served really good food, beer and of course a huge selection of wine!

A beautiful spot.  This campsite also won points for being the first we have visited in Europe that provided both toilet paper and soap in the bathrooms!



Bad Durkheim itself was a lovely town to wander around, with a huge number of sculptures and parks.  It also has the world’s largest wine barrel, capable of holding 1.7 million liters… which of course has never held any wine and is actually a restaurant.  Bad Durkheim also has the world’s largest wine festival… which is next month of course.

The big wine barrel.  It was built by an actual Cooper.

Sculpture of a wine grower from 1936.  I think Morgan has managed to capture the spirit don't you?

Wurstmarktbrunnen.  A crazy statue in one of the town squares.  This translates to sausage market fountain. Wurstmarket is the name of the wine festival - strangely.

Some various shots of Bad Durkheim

Dunno what this is but it looks amazing...and evil


Lots of houses in this area had beautiful big arches and decorative gates.


Colourful houses.  The one in the middle is the oldest house in Bad Durkheim, dating to 1559. It has a metal bumper  fitted (with the red stripes) to stop trucks hitting it.

Schlosskirche St. Johannes

I couldn't get him off this for hours.
On our way out of Bad Durkheim we visited the ruins of a monastery and the ruins of a castle.  Both were really impressive and up on hills with great views.  The castle was definitely enhanced by the group of children dressed in medieval costumes singing/yelling songs that stuck in my head all day!

Romervilla Weilbert

Sculptures in the park

Klosterruine Limberg




Burgruine Hardenburg


Das Medieval Kinder- super cute. 
Highlights- when have I not said “the food” and “the wine”?  To todays list I’d add; walking to the shower in the morning and being greeted by cheery calls of “morgan!”, “morgan!”- weird for me so I’m not sure what it was like for Morgan!; the german language- it’s amazing how much you can guess, work out and replace by sign-language!

We’re off to France for a short time now, following the French wine trail through the Alsace region.  Strasbourg here we come!



Friday, May 27, 2011

17/5/11 – 20/5/ 11 Cologne (Koln)



As Jane noted in the last post – this is a bit out of sequence. I was doing the Cologne update, Jane was doing the Rheine one, and she finished her bit first because I’m a bit lazy.

Anyway, Cologne (or Koln with two dots above the ‘o’) which according to Mike, is the gay capital of Germany. Certainly the gentlemen there were very well groomed.

Our first experience of the autobahn, which has no speed limit in some parts, was interesting. I was expecting a super wide motorway with banked corners, but no – it is perfectly normal. However, it is quite an experience to be going 100kmh and be passed by someone who is going about that speed again. 

We loved Cologne.  The campsite was great, town was close and the cycle in was easy and picturesque. It was a very easy city town for us to ‘get’ and everything just seemed to fall into place.

The key attraction of Cologne is the Cathedral – which is one of the biggest in Europe. We have seen big churches before, but this is something else, possibly because the rest of Cologne is quite new and relatively low. The Cathedral looks like it has descended from space.

The Cathedral - someone put that concrete post there (right of photo) just to make it hard for me to take a photo.

Cologne was almost completely destroyed in WWII, but the Cathedral was untouched.



We walked to the top of the tower - 533 steps. Ouchy.



Jane's mum plays the organ at her local Church and is not fond of heights. What do you think Barb -  like to tickle the ivories on this one?

I've seen a lot of religious iconography and I've noticed something - Jesus never looks very happy.


This box contains the remains of the three Magi, or three wise men. It's solid gold and was paid for by one of the local citizens - so the goldsmith added him in to the frescoes as a fourth wise man. 

It looks like this with no scaffolding around it.


The inside of the spire - it's hollow!

They have created a museum and display of the roman archaeological remains under the Cathedral, and have created an access by boring through the walls. Look how thick they are! Hopefully these bits are not holding up anything important.

This stained glass window IS just random squares. It's like one of those magic eye pictures.

Even the floor is cool.




Another highlight for us was the Church of St Kolumbra. This was a medieval church that was built on top of the remains of some Roman houses. It was bombed in the WWII and has recently been rebuilt. However, rather than just reconstruct the old church, they have built a new, smaller chapel which incorporates the remains of the old walls into the new building, they have also excavated the Roman sub basement and constructed a new art gallery around the whole lot. Very impressive.


The outside wall of the Church, showing old bits (in the middle) and new bits (above)

This is the entry way to the new chapel looking over the excavated Roman basements.  You can see the holes letting  in the light are the holes in the walls int he upper half of the picture above.



Jane reads all her guide books like this. Her arms must get tired.

Jane is looking over the excavated Roman basements towards the windows of the new chapel.


Inside the art gallery. It was much cooler than us.

15th C carved head of John the Baptist - very, very tasteful

The beer in Germany is obviously fantastic but we were happy to discover the wine was so good too.  We were lucky enough to have a wine fair in the center of town; it only goes for a week every year so we were lucky to catch it. Glasses of wine about 2 euros a glass.  Interesting fact, Jane cycles faster in the dark when she is boozed than during the day.

You would smile too if you were drinking delicious wine for 2 Euro a glass.  And that isn't a full serving, Jane has already drunk some, because she is a bit of a lush.

 On our last day we cycled back along the newly redeveloped west bank, which has incorporated the old dock buildings into a new office park.


I loved those 'L' shaped buildings. 






Finally, a note on German cuisine; it is fantastic. They do like their sausages though, we have had bratwurst, wiesswurst, currywurst, and prestwurst, all with sauerkraut (pickled cabbage) and it is all grand.  We also had our best meal of the trip yet- in an italian restaurant in germany!

Currywurst with bread. Everything tastes better when eaten with a toothpick.

'Sour beef' roast (which was delicious) - that ball on the left is a potato dumpling about the size of a cricket ball.

The restaurant/beer garden next to the campsite.

Our view from our site - note the cycle path on the other side of the fence.  The guy who ran the campsite was a bit sarcastic when Jane asked for directions to the city "you cycle along the path - you get to the city!)

So – two thumbs up to Cologne.  Or Koln.